8/20/08

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : Lanvin, men's spring 09

ok, i lied a little.

THIS is my favorite show of the season, every season.
Lanvin, since alber elbaz took over,
is pretty much universally acknowledged to be the most covetable label for women,
what with the combined recognition that YES, PRETTY IS GOOD
(you would not believe how many times i have had that discussion with a designer . . . )
and that YES, women like to dress up, pretty much every chance they can,
and NO, everything doesn't have to fit like a freaking latex bondage suit to be sexy.

guess what?
YES, it sells like crazy.

so when he launched (technically relaunched, though there wasn't much to speak of it before)
men's, he hired lucas ossenjdriver
to not just rework,
but RETHINK the line.

and he has done just that.

he rethought how men dress.  he took the feeling of casual dressing,
mixed in really luxe fabrics, and recut the silhouettes on everything.

he believes in the high with the low,
but makes BOTH extremely thoughtfully.

it is no secret that i am addicted to their trainers.  addicted in a way that goes beyond rational thought and enters the realm of "the only shoes i really ever need".  which is the first time i have ever said that.  but more on that later . . .

not since jil did her original men's lines have i bought pieces (a few few few pieces.  they make even me choke at the price.) have things suddenly . . . gone with everything.  without thought.

since this line is my new obsession, of sorts, spring was at first a little off-putting.


uh huh.

hats.

silk velvet.

this is spring.  for men.

in some ways, i had an easier time justifying leather shorts and leggings than this.
it was pretty, but did i see myself in them?
did i see anyone?
other than bobby trendy?

but, i have faith in this line.  so i looked closer, i dug around, and i began to understand.

pant legs are definitely slimmer. there is (again, a trend) an almost legging-like quality to them.  and the fabrics were all lightweight, almost floating in motion, and meant to be layered.


add a trench, and it might work.

more:

the colors had an amazing dull touch to them, reminiscent of burberry prorsum, but more feminine here.  that played right into the feminine/masculine mix going on for so many seasons.  and i've found that you grab ANY of these pieces, throw them with jeans, an american apparel thermal, and oddly, magically, you are fucked-up cool.


of course, i kind of lust for the floors on the runway,
but those aren't showing up on any racks any time soon.

pity.

then things got a little easier.  a hat i will wear in a convertible:


shorts and a jacket, perhaps a little full at first, but i swear these things blow up on you unexpectedly:


and,
completely practical tennis shoes.  trainers.  i'm blurry suddenly:


this is the trick with runway.
what you see during the show,
and what you see on the racks,
can sometimes end up being two different things.

with lanvin, you can be sure the inspiration will deliver.
and most often,
over-deliver.






i could make it work.

1 comment:

editor said...

you could SO make it work.
beautiful.