RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RAF SIMONS FALL 09

let's return to some good news,

shall we?

come along, kidlets,

i want you to see this guy.

raf simons is a bit of a genius.

remember how we've been talking about fusing traditional "safe" clothing

with inspired newness,

and the challenge so many have fallen flat on their faces with 

this season?

add to that the prevailing attempts at metaphor

(tough times require artistic expression even in fashion, sometimes to a too literal degree)

and there has also been an explosion of military and, literally,

ARMOR references.

would this raf fellow do this?

yes.  and no.

this line was an explosion of highly beautifully tailored suits,

but as in any great piece of art,

it required an exploration of the DETAILS

to see the whole picture.

nothing was quite as it seemed at first glance:

what to make of one blue sleeve?

a simple lovely pop of color, or something else?

double facing melange and felted wool?

perhaps the prettiest coat of the season,

after his jil show.

but then,

this:

suits began to deconstruct,

not actually a topcoat over a gray suit,

but a top/vest over a pieced suit.

neoprene,

a fabric not seen since early prada runways

re-emerged in layers that felt less scuba

than sheathing,

protecting the male form,

bullet-like.

then knit shells over woven jackets,

to further mix the cocooning effect.

a stunning black and white sequence.

and then,

the explosive power of color,

perhaps the modern man's best armor of all:

this

was a show

to remember.