RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LANVIN FALL 09

alber elbaz and lucas ossenjdriver,

if not THE devil,

are certainly minions of extreme power

and influence.

otherwise,

how to explain the show that ends all other shows.

it took me awhile to become a fan of lanvin.

to begin with, the prices are staggeringly expensive.

not just "designer", but "what the . . . "

then, the clothing is deceptively hangar unfriendly.

there are certain labels that are only understood when seen on the body,

or even better, when FELT on the body.

this is without doubt one of those.

finally, it is a label of supreme wit and subtlety.

you have to be willing to explore notions like

grosgrain trim for men,

silk and cashmere sweatpants,

trainers in satin and patent leather,

cropping that is also voluminous,

length that ends before the ankle.

this is the kind of label where current trends

seem to blur,

and simply not seem relevant

to how you suddenly want to dress.

this collection, for instance,

took the dark mood of many runways,

and blended it with new volumes,

classic lanvin femininity

(is there a such thing as the butch effete?),

and layered neutrals:

and because it IS lanvin,

there is that subversive fuschia/violet/hot pink

infusion:

note all the raw edges?

another lanvin lesson,

another acquired taste.

the layering of neutrals took on new impact:

it is about texture, edges, and a new "softness".

oh,

and an obscene glove:

every piece becomes a "go-to" with a label this evolved.

it reminds me of early jil sander,

where the inquisition built to appreciation built to mad desire

in the course of three early seasons.

you,

you call it madness.

i,

i call it love.