RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, RICK OWENS 11

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yes to everything.

to the cowls, the cutaways, the draping.

to the palette, the gloves, the glowering.

-

take any individual piece,

mix with what you own,

done.

-

take the whole look,

realize how current cutting edge can feel.

-

done.

-

-

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, LOUIS VUITTON 11

-

this is a label that is almost always about the runway,

not the reality.

the clothing, if it shows in stores at all,

is the most mundane, 

dumbed down,

and oversized of merchandise.

-

so, think of this as merely a dream.

-

it helps,

because even with the cash,

you won't be able to wear it.

-

this season?

sick shearlings,

man bags that feel vintage/butch,

sweet knits,

and the best shagreen shoes ever.

-

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RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, HERMES 11

-

let's just say,

while much of the suits are predictably "french",

the leathers and technical outerwear,

the shearling pants and frayed scarves,

this is all leading the brand into a new territory,

a much more modern luxury,

a place where they deserve, and their womenswear could learn from.

-

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RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, JIL SANDER 11

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after a spring of riotous color,

it was good to see raf sticking to color, but in an evolved way.

-

this time around, i was more taken by the suits

than the separates.

-

and thought i gravitate to gray and khaki

the intense citron and fuschia 

made me lunge forward.

more than a bit.

-

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RUNWAY RUNDOWN : tim hamilton fall 09

while everyone is out looking for

"the next american menswear designer",

he arrived quietly several years ago.

i bought my first tim hamilton piece in hong kong,

unable to resist the acidic yellow

and coutureish ruching on a cotton hoodie

that had the weight of athletic wear you remember from middle school

rather than the almost flimsy quality of mass brand work these days.

i have worn that thing into the ground.

each season, tim hamilton has explored and expanded,

moving in ways that are hard to chart,

giving us "american" sportwear

with a twist.

this fall, he opened up his oeuvre:

more formal,

more dress,

and how much do i want that printed trench?

and the knits?

the footwear is great, too.

but the sportswear took a huge leap,

into new forms

and a distillation of many of the new trends:

the last look?

me.  all me.

(and he just launched womenswear.  go.  find.)

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : libertine fall 09

sometimes,

shows just make you happy.

let's have a party

and all wear these, shall we?

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : the thom browne conundrum, fall 09

for anyone who follows fashion,

thom browne is a bit of a fascination.

there is no denying how his vision of the modern man

has transformed the way every man 

wears clothing.

tighter,

higher armholes,

shorter pants,

smaller jackets,

it's all thom.

but as we all know,

it's a pretty strict vision.

unlike a lucas ossenjdriver at lanvin,

or a rick owens,

there is little experimentation in browne's language,

his jazz is relatively one note,

not very coltrane.

so you get used to the parade of short shorts,

gray and pops of color,

knee socks,

and a tutu thrown in here and there.

hence,

fall 09:

hear me in that i am not dismissing the essential beauty of the clothes he creates.

there is a pristine sense of wonder to them,

even if they would have trouble translating to most of america.

for now.

and the hand and quality of his work is beyond peer in person,

so it justifies the staggering price point.

but it has become the outlandish whimsy

that makes me sit up and enjoy him these days.

 

  

  

stripes, plaids, and patters writ loud!

and red pants.  RED pants!

 

  

and coats best seen from the back . . .

 

  

  

and perhaps my favorite

in the parade:

 

something to wear,

JUST to wear.

and that is thom's gift.