what we can learn from women - anna della russo

this is an "icons of style" post in the making,

but anna is first, in a field where fashion is critical to her survival.

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not husband hunting.

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not envy-inducing.

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she is the fashion director of Vogue Nippon, 

and they take their fashion deadly seriously.

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still,

we can learn from her that a fearless approach to fashion,

that wearing what one loves

(here's the key with anna)

WHEN

one wants to wear it . . .

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well darlings, that makes all the difference in the world.

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(bright red lanvin coctail dress, mid-day, paris fashion week.)

behind the scenes at Lanvin -

from "the selby",

a great site where a photographer gets to glimpse inside fashion cognocenti's homes,

the lanvin men's studios:

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i love the spool of grosgrain ribbon

(a lanvin signature trim)

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the wall of shoes makes me a little light headed every time i see it.

men need to love their shoes like this more.

it's one of the few forms of expression we are truly allowed.

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lucas always looks so composed and disheveled.

that is an art.

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the last trainers are ridiculous.

i would not wear them.

i would FRAME them.

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RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LANVIN FALL 09

alber elbaz and lucas ossenjdriver,

if not THE devil,

are certainly minions of extreme power

and influence.

otherwise,

how to explain the show that ends all other shows.

it took me awhile to become a fan of lanvin.

to begin with, the prices are staggeringly expensive.

not just "designer", but "what the . . . "

then, the clothing is deceptively hangar unfriendly.

there are certain labels that are only understood when seen on the body,

or even better, when FELT on the body.

this is without doubt one of those.

finally, it is a label of supreme wit and subtlety.

you have to be willing to explore notions like

grosgrain trim for men,

silk and cashmere sweatpants,

trainers in satin and patent leather,

cropping that is also voluminous,

length that ends before the ankle.

this is the kind of label where current trends

seem to blur,

and simply not seem relevant

to how you suddenly want to dress.

this collection, for instance,

took the dark mood of many runways,

and blended it with new volumes,

classic lanvin femininity

(is there a such thing as the butch effete?),

and layered neutrals:

and because it IS lanvin,

there is that subversive fuschia/violet/hot pink

infusion:

note all the raw edges?

another lanvin lesson,

another acquired taste.

the layering of neutrals took on new impact:

it is about texture, edges, and a new "softness".

oh,

and an obscene glove:

every piece becomes a "go-to" with a label this evolved.

it reminds me of early jil sander,

where the inquisition built to appreciation built to mad desire

in the course of three early seasons.

you,

you call it madness.

i,

i call it love.

the LANVIN hat. man chapeau. boy topper.

i don't quite know what to make of this:

it was an amazing runway piece.

so when it started popping up in stores,

for sale,

for real,

i was momentarily excited.

RUNWAY TO REALITY.

but.

tried it on.

and thought,

you know,

even at the height of my club-kid

catsuit wearing

eyeliner long haired

days,

i would have hesitated on this one.

what thinks vous?

too much?

just right?

help me here.

the landis is flummoxed.

ampersands : the LANVIN WINGTIP. shit.

i was naive.

in my little shell.

surely lucas ossenjdriver,

the genius behind lanvin's men's line,

would be content torturing me with a nearly endless procession,

season after season,

of covetable "stealth luxe" clothing

and obscene new takes on the trainer.

surely, surely,

he would let me occasionally purchase a shoe,

a small thing,

and then go about my way.

BASTARD!

(pardon my french.)

WORKING IT : the lanvin trainer (or sneaker. i'm affected. suprise!)

call them fetishes,
call them obsessions,
but i have historically latched onto certain items
by certain designers
and purchased, collected, even hoarded them
because
(and some of you will understand this)
they simply "click".

it started with the martin margiela
simple, beltless "tube" pant.

my friend david worked at barney's at the time,
and was wearing a pair.

they looked amazing:
simple, clean, yet somehow SEXY.
it was the blend of cut and fabric and sophistication
that,
after the first pair,
led to the immediate purchase of every other pair i found.

(imagine my chagrin when i lost fifty seven pounds,
and,
consequently,
my entire "collection".
the seamstress just laughed when i asked her to take them in,
and touched the two pockets over themselves to demonstrate the . . . futility.
i had to start from scratch.)

this led to a couple of rounds with hermes scarves,
(see the earlier posting)
jil sander blazers,
american apparel summer v-necks,
gold toe socks,
and . . . the lanvin trainer.
sneaker.

whatever.

when i first saw them on the runway, i hated them.
they were glorified sneakers.
they were ROUND toed, clunky, vivid.
they were trying too hard.

then, i was given a pair as a gift:

pink satin.  pink ballistic nylon.  pink suede.
(no, i'm sorry.  to quote a designer friend, not pink, cyclamen.)
it was OVER.

they became my "go-to" shoe.
they suddenly made the suit, modern.
the jean, chic.
the khaki, edgy.

perhaps it's the blends of patent and ballistic nylon, or satin and suede.
i've even seen them beaded.
perhaps it's the precise scale of sole to toe, weight to space.

whatever it is,
the fetish has become an obsession, and, if i could make it happen,
it might be
(gasp.  shudder.  don't quote me.)
the only shoe i  need.

remember,
i said not to quote me . . .

(they just keep making them so prettttty . . . )