Showing posts with label raf simons. Show all posts
Showing posts with label raf simons. Show all posts

2/24/09

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RAF SIMONS FALL 09

let's return to some good news,
shall we?
come along, kidlets,
i want you to see this guy.
raf simons is a bit of a genius.
remember how we've been talking about fusing traditional "safe" clothing
with inspired newness,
and the challenge so many have fallen flat on their faces with 
this season?
add to that the prevailing attempts at metaphor
(tough times require artistic expression even in fashion, sometimes to a too literal degree)
and there has also been an explosion of military and, literally,
ARMOR references.
would this raf fellow do this?
yes.  and no.
this line was an explosion of highly beautifully tailored suits,
but as in any great piece of art,
it required an exploration of the DETAILS
to see the whole picture.
nothing was quite as it seemed at first glance:
what to make of one blue sleeve?
a simple lovely pop of color, or something else?
double facing melange and felted wool?
perhaps the prettiest coat of the season,
after his jil show.
but then,
this:
suits began to deconstruct,
not actually a topcoat over a gray suit,
but a top/vest over a pieced suit.
neoprene,
a fabric not seen since early prada runways
re-emerged in layers that felt less scuba
than sheathing,
protecting the male form,
bullet-like.
then knit shells over woven jackets,
to further mix the cocooning effect.
a stunning black and white sequence.
and then,
the explosive power of color,
perhaps the modern man's best armor of all:
this
was a show
to remember.

2/17/09

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : JIL SANDER FALL 09

 lessons learned from the jil fall show:
1)  the hourglass silhouette, a nipped waist, 
is the most modern mix of masc/femme we've seen in awhile.
and it works:
2) raf simons cast as if he were re-shooting gattaca.  
which we'd like to see.
3) the "hand-painted" effect of the woven coats
brought back the memories of jil's original "secret" coats.
no one knew how she did it,
but everyone wanted it.
4) seeing this show made us want to speak in the third person.
more than usual.
especially after we saw the first "must have" of the season:
we'd take this, too:
ah, raf.
you slay us.