E-masc-U-L8

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, RICK OWENS 11

2011-02-20T13:56:00.000-08:00

yes to everything.

to the cowls, the cutaways, the draping.

to the palette, the gloves, the glowering.

take any individual piece,

mix with what you own,

done.

take the whole look,

realize how current cutting edge can feel.

done.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, LOUIS VUITTON 11

2011-02-19T13:53:00.000-08:00

this is a label that is almost always about the runway,

not the reality.

the clothing, if it shows in stores at all,

is the most mundane,

dumbed down,

and oversized of merchandise.

so, think of this as merely a dream.

it helps,

because even with the cash,

you won't be able to wear it.

this season?

sick shearlings,

man bags that feel vintage/butch,

sweet knits,

and the best shagreen shoes ever.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, HERMES 11

2011-02-16T16:46:00.002-08:00

let's just say,

while much of the suits are predictably "french",

the leathers and technical outerwear,

the shearling pants and frayed scarves,

this is all leading the brand into a new territory,

a much more modern luxury,

a place where they deserve, and their womenswear could learn from.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : focus on fall collections, JIL SANDER 11

2011-02-15T15:31:00.000-08:00

after a spring of riotous color,

it was good to see raf sticking to color, but in an evolved way.

this time around, i was more taken by the suits

than the separates.

and thought i gravitate to gray and khaki

the intense citron and fuschia

made me lunge forward.

more than a bit.

ABOUT THE END : ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

2010-03-09T11:26:00.001-08:00

i duplicate this posting on both my blogs today
-

i have been waiting quite some time to write this,

probably for a sign, for some palpable shift in emotional state,

or event,

that will let me know it is time,

finally,

to talk about why i am so stricken by the death of a fashion designer i never knew in person.

we are all inspired by people we don't know.

artists, musicians,

we all seek out masters and innovators

and draw from their intense burn to fuel our own searches,

our own creations.

from the time he began his career,

i followed mcqueen.

there was something otherworldly in his work,

and i believe his work went far beyond his clothing.

while that was inexplicably beautiful,

it often had a quality to it that seemed almost

if not out of "place",

out of time.

i would visit the new york flagship when it first opened

and peruse the racks of clothing, for men and for women,

the intricate embroideries on simple dark coats,

pickings of gold leaves and bird wings,

dense applications, ornate musings.

i could not afford the whimsy of those coats and wings,

but i could wander the store, a molded white vision,

that to this day removes you from the streets of new york

and places you squarely in some sterile, gorgeous laboratory

where hand carved wooden busts rotate slowly,

draped in the season's finest dreams.

to be honest, it was in viewing the runway shows that i felt closest to the mind of mcqueen.

he never wasted a space or the time he asked of you with simplicity.

he challenged your eyes and your ears with huge glass boxes filled with moths

that revealed corpulent bodies, swathed in tulle;

he ran robots up and down runways,

at times spray painting model's white gowns as you watched,

at times filming them live as they walked and streaming to the world.

he haunted the runways with live wolves,

battered his models with wind tunnels,

ran them in circles in homage to movies about dance marathons,

set them as enormous chess pieces on a living board,

and ended once with kate moss floating mid stage,

a hologram,

and angel,

a ghost.

Alexander McQueen: Iconic Moments from Jean Hürxkens on Vimeo.
-

the divine and the damned were recurrent themes for him,

whether the clothing took on delicate decay,

or stripped itself down to raw flesh and edge,

there was always something transcendent about the ideas,

and about the way it made the women move.

to see his runways was to be invited into his mind,

then left out the back door,

stumbling into the light of the mundane.

i think this is why i personally hungered for mcqueen.

there was none of the camp of galliano,

with the overt homoeroticism and the retreading of themes;

none of the anger of owens,

the dispassionate shifting from season to season of many of the other greats.

there was one apparent vision,

one love,

one mind.

suicide is a topic of fear for people,

a topic of judgement,

a topic of confusion.

but i don't think life, or how it ends,

is ever as simple as an equation.

there is nothing simple about death,

any more than there is about life.

so when a mind, or a soul, whatever you wish to place upon the discussion,

takes itself out of the passage of time,

chooses to leave,

i feel searing personal loss first,

perhaps a form of loneliness,

a certain desire to regain that momentary sense of comeraderie

that i imagined and fed upon

for years.

mcqueen's funeral was a small one.

familial, somber,

barely an echo in the world's news.

but the few pictures i saw told me that i was not completely alone

in my sense of loneliness.

if lee alexander mcqueen had suffered too much personal loss to continue,

he would have been most pleased to see how his inner circle chose to honor him.

thank you daphne, for the cape.

it was the first time i found a smile in weeks.

when in san francisco recently,

tim and i found a store that had just received his spring 10 men's collection.

this jacket,

a prime piece in his recent exploration of digital printing,

took the painting

"the birth of venus"

and made it a new thing of beauty:

note the cherubim on the shoulder blades.

but still, i couldn't speak here about him.

today they released photos of his final women's collection,

not the whole line,

just works that he personally cut on figure,

that he draped and hand sewed.

and it was the moment i needed.

i do not want to say that the clothing in any way explains his decision.

but i saw HIM,

again,

the way i did as a young man.

i saw the passion,

i saw the joy,

and i saw the sorrow.

there is hand embroidery that speaks of a meticulous eye:

digital prints that speak of innovation and desire:

silhouettes that banish the mundane thoughts of "day to day"

and practicality:

i had always said that were i woman, getting married,

there could be no other gown than one designed by mcqueen.

even here, there was re-affirmation of that sentiment,

where the virginal and the holy

met the strong:

the salon where the showing was held was the perfect final venue.

look to the mirror in this shot,

and see his obsession with wings take final form,

a digital print of statuary,

given new life:

perhaps when you have touched the divine,

or let it pass through you with such sublime results,

the calling to it is made more irresistable.

or perhaps that is just poetic wishful thinking,

from someone who was moved by an artist,

and hopes he has found peace

somewhere,

at last.

RICK OWENS : a tone poem to the women's fall line

2009-10-22T06:33:00.000-07:00

for a man to do both genders so well,

it's kind of amazing.

rick's early adopters were women who understood how to take his more extreme work,

mix it into their wardrobes,

and use the edge to individuate, not isolate, themselves.

now, with his work in fur,

there's a "ball it up and go" quality that his leathers had,

yet a luxe quality that is new.

it's modern, yet old world.

huh.

realize i just wallowed in the fur and leather end of his line,

while there is so much more to it.

but i think there is a subversion to working proudly in the medium

that speaks to him clearly as a personality.

these are pieces not for show,

but to be handled,

worn,

taken out to challenge the environment and the world.

plus,

i loves me some fuzzy pretty things.

I KNOW!

RICK OWENS : a tone poem to the men's line for fall

2009-10-20T06:28:00.000-07:00

rick is one of those designers whose wares are best seen on the human body.

actually, best WORN personally,

you have to understand how the clothing moves yet fits like armor,

is sculpted, even in his tees and knits,

to absorb you and support you at the same time.

his new york store puts out a beautiful online lookbook every season,

and i thought it would be nice to share the beauty.

even the casting is on point.

tonally it is neither too edgy, too poetic, or trying too hard.

it, much like his work,

simply IS.

IF I WERE A GIRL : a silhouette emerges from RICK OWENS, CHRISTOPHE DECARNIN, AND IRIS STRUBEGGER

2009-10-16T03:57:00.000-07:00

wrapping up this cross-gender shopping excursion for the week,

i really was hit by three images more than any other

that are influencing my personal style.

the first was from the BALMAIN runway,

when the designer, christophe decarnin, took his bow.

i've come to realize that the designers who really own their personal visions

are also the ones who dress, regardless of gender,

true to that vision.

so, decarnin's denim and shrunken leather and boots all were twisted versions

of what he shows for women.

they reminded me of my college years,

when adorned pants and jackets were objects of lust and late night sewing sessions

(thank you karen for the rose covered jeans and tequila)

and the sexy freedom of the unwashed torn jean.

the next was,

of course,

my personal god,

rick owens:

i mean, talk about owning an aesthetic.

i would live in his clothing if i could,

the pieces i have are worn on every set i walk onto,

and feel like armor and elitism and nonchalance and edge

rolled into lambskin and sheer cotton.

plus, love the hair and big guns, big boy.

and then, this exit by the model of the moment,

iris strubegger.

it was lean, it was givenchy, it was sleek,

and barring the sandals,

was something i would wear every day.

plus, the evangelista tribute hair rocks.

of course all that sleekness warred with my more elaborate tendencies,

as this moment in the dries van noten show showed.

no place to wear it,

but would wear it to the grocery store if i owned it.

there you have it.

party in balmain,

shoot in rick owens,

groceries in dries.

IF I WERE A GIRL : CHANEL, of all things . . .

2009-10-15T08:03:00.000-07:00

chanel has long struggled with the fact that it is viewed as an "older" brand,

suitable for a certain chic woman of a certain age

with a certain income to afford it.

this spring show we saw a lighter,

younger,

insouicant chanel.

and thanks to kaiser karl,

a host of ideas about how to make fashion,

true, high end fashion,

desirable even as it is wearable.

not an easy feat.

but, here is what i would buy from chanel:

this cardigan is so cool, i'd wear it even as a boy.

seriously, karl, gimme.

ditto for the leather topper.

makes the dress younger,

makes the patterned tights cooler.

i don't know. i love a slouchy pant and a tiny jacket.

even a tiny tweedy fey jacket.

then there was the whole bell skirt thing.

i liked.

and i began to see how the layers of texture and craftsmanship

made all the neutrals interesting.

and this, it's like a post modern punk chanel girl

out to run this town tonight.

rihanna, take note.

guys,

take these notes:

1) neutrals, again, better with texture and details. think nubby and linen and texture.

2) black balances and grounds everything here.

3) a little bejeweled wheat hair adornment really helps kick an outfit up a level.

IF I WERE A GIRL : meet HAIDER ACKERMAN.

2009-10-14T07:58:00.000-07:00

this guy,

haider,

he kind of rocks.

he's a little bit lanvin,

a little bit rick owens,

and for me to say that is like a blessing from the pope in red shoes on a sunday.

he followed the military/safari theme that popped up,

but kept it light, sensual, and sexy.

i'd buy these:

military meets the Met

a little halston meets a little dust

reminds me a little of early dries (van noten. google it.)

looks like you could wear it to bed.

ok, i'd wear this just for you guys.

because you've been so nice.

watch this man to go on to impressive things.

IF I WERE A GIRL : CELINE, and why it matters again.

2009-10-13T08:47:00.000-07:00

follow me here.

there is a designer named phoebe philo.

she used to design under stella mccartney (yes, THAT mccartney)

at a label called chloe.

big success. launched stella into her own line.

then phoebe took over and a funny thing happened.

chloe got even better.

then one thing led to another, she left to raise her child.

women mourned.

who would make the cool, but goes with everything clothing they loved.

now, phoebe is back,

at a label called celine (CHUH-LEAN).

and in her first collection, she nailed every spring trend,

and made it work in a way women will want to wear,

not just look at on blogs.

this is your label to understand spring,

this is what I would buy from celine

were i a girl:

this opening look combines leather, black (the spring secondary color), short, minimal.

it's a home run.

no, she (i) won't wear it like this.

but the white shirt is timeless and amazing,

and the skirt is too cool (leather trim. sigh.)

worn with a tee, it's perfect.

the lacquered black mattelasse (dimensional pattern) coat

will last until you wear it out.

same with the dress.

a little fashion forward,

but every woman wants a piece in their wardrobe

that makes their girlfriends go

"damn. that's cool. and she pulls it off."

guys should learn from this.

and, done.

guys,

learn from this the following things:

1) black and white and beige are best when teamed with unexpected texture, color, or silhouette.

2) one strange piece sets the others in your closet into contrast, and elevates opinion of you.

3) phoebe philo is fun to say out loud.

IF I WERE A GIRL : shut up, you know what i mean . . .

2009-10-12T08:36:00.000-07:00

not to belabor an obvious fact,

but paris fashion week just wrapped up,

and my inner fashion whore kind of went rampant this season.

often i have bemoaned the fact that men's fashion is so torpid and stale,

and tim has thanked god that i'm not a woman,

(for obvious reasons, yes),

because the budget for shoes alone would screw us in a month.

looking at spring was fascinating though.

you saw designers struggling across a spectrum on how to SELL,

and how to EXPRESS.

but sticking with the point of this blog,

here's what we can learn from women:

1) stick to the neutrals this spring.

the runways were awash with neutral colors, with more beige than a sandstorm,

and with black used as an "accent" more than as a statement.

and when it wasn't beige, it was gray.

retailers are going to struggle with this, as sales floors will look horrid in a wave of beige,

even if it is on trend.

look for "new neutrals" in every editorial spread.

dread it.

but wear it.

2) the classics made a comeback.

chanel was hugely youthful and inspirational.

ysl carved out modernism and pushed forward.

phoebe philo was back at celine, and nailed it.

the old guard proved why they are timeless.

3) lindsay lohan is not a designer.

enough said.

4) for women, short is the new long. still.

5) on the beauty front, natural looking makeup is IN. eyebrows are OUT.

i have no idea. you figure that one out on your own.

6) the label to name drop if you want to appear in the know,

or at least turn a woman's head,

is BALMAIN.

think dusty military looks with chain mail accents,

everything skin tight, battered, and sexy.

from there, it's GIVENCHY,

for black and white, geometric prints, and sophisticated draping.

bu for the truly elite,

it's still LANVIN.

with a show that pushed the most beautiful dresses and accessories

into another stratosphere with beading, beading, and color.

the next few days, i'm shopping the girl's side of the aisle,

to keep you and your eye on guard

for when your girlfriend sits down and expects a compliment this spring.

some tips on dressing for yourself (margiela, panerai, hermes. . . it's not cheap, kids) -

2009-08-21T05:55:00.000-07:00

i'm probably as sick as you are with all the "self-help" guru crap out there for men.

seriously, who gives a fuck about how to tie a windsor knot

(i can google that, thank you.)

or whether denim is officially "over"

(yes. but not dead.)

or why men CAN use a face cream and still be men

(someone shoot me. or ryan seacrest.)

how about we just have some fun with this,

and not be afraid.

for instance,

i dress for myself

(obvious, landis)

and here's what i'm licking up these days:

this martin margiela cardigan. the ONLY sweater i need this fall.

i have a navy one from last year, it's flawless,

part blazer, all knit,

compliment magnet,

thoughtless fashion.

the pants rock too.

someday if i make crazy cash

(that i don't sink into investments, property, or stupidly expensive sweaters)

i will buy this limited edition panerai.

the "california" dial speaks to me.

it says

"your life is less without me".

i never said fashion was kind.

anything hermes.

they are having a moment again in menswear.

watch for the resurgence.

alright, this scarf, losange, in particular.

i wouldn't call it a steal.

but it would complete me.

coveting the attitude of this guy in richard haines' sketch.

though richard is a friend,

he has yet to send me this attitude.

pity.

this delicious lanvin suit.

i have no place to wear such a colored suit.

but for this suit,

i will create an event.

see?

wasn't that more fun than reading about why you should wear stripes this fall?

you are welcome.

what we can learn from women - anna della russo

2009-08-20T02:21:00.000-07:00

this is an "icons of style" post in the making,

but anna is first, in a field where fashion is critical to her survival.

not husband hunting.

not envy-inducing.

she is the fashion director of Vogue Nippon,

and they take their fashion deadly seriously.

still,

we can learn from her that a fearless approach to fashion,

that wearing what one loves

(here's the key with anna)

WHEN

one wants to wear it . . .

well darlings, that makes all the difference in the world.

(bright red lanvin coctail dress, mid-day, paris fashion week.)

florals? for spring? shocker.

2009-08-19T05:26:00.000-07:00

while florals for spring

are as predictable as a magazine cover stating:

WHITE IS BACK,

what's happened in menswear with florals for next spring is rather interesting:

now, granted,

these are martin margiela and alexis mabille,

but the addition of crochet to leather or sneakers,

and lace cut out of cloth and left raw,

somehow,

makes florals seem tenable again.

of course you didn't believe me about legging under shorts,

and look where that left you on the sartorial "know how" scale.

DU JOUR -

2009-08-18T05:16:00.000-07:00

we should seek to age with grace,

our style appropriate but youthful,

and our vices firmly intact.

underfoot, fabien baron -

2009-08-17T05:18:00.000-07:00

design in a man's life should be omnipresent.

every detail counts.

so while we often explore clothing here,

we're going to talk about rugs now.

fabien baron is a legendary graphic designer.

calvin klein ads?

him

perfume bottles?

him

Bazaar magazine under liz tilberis?

him

so when he designs rugs,

you have to expect that perfect blend of minimal flourish,

maximum impact,

and sensitive color palette.

the gradations are achieved from gradual addition or subtraction of hundreds of tones,

not dyeing.

stunning.

we have only been able to afford one great rug in our home,

but it makes all the difference in the world.

it somehow adds motion and life to an otherwise calm collection of furnishings:

behind the scenes at Lanvin -

2009-08-13T11:13:00.000-07:00

from "the selby",

a great site where a photographer gets to glimpse inside fashion cognocenti's homes,

the lanvin men's studios:

i love the spool of grosgrain ribbon

(a lanvin signature trim)

the wall of shoes makes me a little light headed every time i see it.

men need to love their shoes like this more.

it's one of the few forms of expression we are truly allowed.

lucas always looks so composed and disheveled.

that is an art.

the last trainers are ridiculous.

i would not wear them.

i would FRAME them.

THIS NOT THAT : hermes men's spring 10

2009-07-20T05:33:00.000-07:00

what i would buy from hermes for spring:

(since you asked)

the new belt

belts don't normally do it for me. this one did.

the sheer scarf, and the boatneck sweater.

while there will be interpretations of this out there,

there will not be the quality or attention to detail and texture.

the pale leather trench.

you know. for those nights that call for a pale leather trench.

the printed short short.

because it's an hermes print.

and i have killer legs.

the oddly cut, crotch enhancing trouser.

don't know what veronique is doing to her pantaloons,

but it's working for me.

DU JOUR : birthday edition

2009-07-20T05:01:00.000-07:00

i was born this date,

the day the men landed on the moon.

beautiful work by paul lee,

graphic designer.

sings to me.

THIS NOT THAT : julius men's spring 10

2009-07-17T02:48:00.000-07:00

while i often wax rhapsodic about the more experimental designers,

this shopping trip will show you,

even the edgiest

are wearable.

from julius' eye popping runway:

this vest.

perfect with dark, slim denim, a workboot, aviators.

this leather jacket.

if i have to explain how to wear a leather jacket,

you really should be on another site.

these pants/leggings.

while not lohan myself,

with a navy shirt, a camel blazer, and hightops,

modern and soooo comfortable.

this jacket.

and the crown.

i'm not explaining the crown.

it's personal.

(a steel and pearl crown!)

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-17T01:54:00.000-07:00

great book covers

are great inspiration.

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-16T01:44:00.000-07:00

sometimes,

a concept car

is more than a concept.

sometimes it sets the mind racing along the lines of:

what would the sight through green glass be like?

how would the car sound?

how would this FEEL under my touch?

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-15T05:03:00.000-07:00

subversion :

sometimes we need to see the familiar

through a different lens

to fully appreciate it's power.

and it's potential.

THIS NOT THAT : bottega veneta men's spring 10

2009-07-14T05:09:00.000-07:00

different take this time around.

not reviewing the whole runway show.

"shopping" the show.

these are the pieces i covet,

and would make my own from the shows.
-
from the key show of the season, BOTTEGA VENETA:

-
unquestionably, something RED.
tomas meier did a whole run of red, primarily in a bold tomato tone,
that looks so fresh suddenly, particularly for summer.
i would take:
-

-
the flap pocketed pant
-

-
the laser cut leather blazer
-

-
and of course, the signature red suit.
go big or go home.
then:
-

-
the odd and insane intrecciato "confetti" leather bag
_

-
the vivid cerulean alligator tote
-

-
this little green combo (sexy/army/summer)
-

-
a pair of these delicious luxe sweatpants to pair with a blazer
-

-
these printed pants. not really "me", but then again, so "me".
-

-
this flawless re-invention of the navy blazer.
peak shoulders, nipped waist, flared hips.
watch the shoulder to start appearing everywhere within the year.
-
what we learn from this shopping excursion?
the color palette is a new look at masculine,
a fusion of the femininity of lanvin and something more agressive.
watch for it to start emerging everywhere, quickly.
also,
a strong commitment to the ongoing mesh of casual and formal,
but re-interpreted in skins and wovens.
-
oh,
and the return, big time, of the penny loafer.

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-14T04:57:00.000-07:00

learn from conceptual furniture design

that all things need not be "just a chair"

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-13T04:51:00.000-07:00

gloriously RED art installation.

men should fear art less. we should insist on it's presence.

the eye needs to be pleased. the eye needs to be trained.

DU JOUR : a daily dose of beauty and inspiration

2009-07-10T11:50:00.000-07:00

new postings starting today.

i will be adding one piece of personal (recent) inspiration here for you to learn from.

i may tell you why,

i may not,

but each image moves me and leads to some form of insight into what men should/could/would

need to live a fuller life.
-
glassware from stefano tonchi's apartment in new york.

for years before we owned our first place,
tim and i would collect handblown glasses.
we built a beautiful collection that we never drank from,
in all colors and sizes.

when we finally moved into our first home,
they began being used,
and we moved from "college apartment" living
to "young adult" life.

objects can provide marking points in life.

beauty can be the landmark.
-

the eye needs to be pleased. the eye needs to be challenged.

wow. where the hell did i go?

2009-07-07T01:12:00.000-07:00

sorry,

fell off the face of the blogosphere for a bit.

happens.

wasn't shopping, though.

was finding my way through a new life/career thing.

loving it. hating it. loving it.

such is my nature.

back now for a bit.

think we should talk about the spring shows, right?
-
but first, a bulgari interlude:
-

our roofdeck this summer

our living room

the bedroom

our bathroom.

-

OR,
the bulgari suites in milan.

-

where i SHOULD have been, lo, these last many months.

ICONS OF STYLE : the curious case of victoria "posh spice" beckham

2009-04-20T05:58:00.000-07:00

please,

take this for what it is.

but one has to admit that ms. beckham

has in a far shorter time period,

and with far greater grace notes,

eclipsed her dandified arm-candy

to become a stylish,

interesting

fashion icon.

is she a true icon, hitting all the notes of our previous members?

non.

does she have potential?

oui.

so let's look at this as a lesson.

in how one can evolve,

and develop the footsteps towards fashion icon status.

little vickie began to enter my consciousness somewhere around here-ish:

post music career, new hair, lots of designer label.

level: attention whore.

then this, which i saw in person at the mtv awards two years ago:

level : whore

but then, curiously, she began mingling with marc.

and this stuff began:

level : celebutante

ok, you say, dressed BY a designer does not make one stylish.

but off hours, we saw this happening:

a little rick owens. a little hermes.

not bad.

love or hate the choices, they suited her.

they carried some edge.

they took some guts.

and then, she designs her own clothes,

and they aren't horrible.

in fact, they are surprisingly chic. and pretty. and desireable:

i gotta say, i LOVE a charcoal pencil skirt, deep vee and fur shrug.

and as long as she can still wack out and do this every once in awhile:

i'm giving miss vicky an upgraded level.

level : icon, in training.

A.P.B. : i love this look

2009-04-17T05:09:00.000-07:00

from the site : stylezeitgeist.com

it's the perfect casual modern guy look.

cool sweater, good bag, great denim, excellent shoes.

ok, now I want it.

Gossip Girl fashion breakdown :

2009-04-15T05:50:00.000-07:00

i found these facts

absolutely fascinating.

in a sick, delicious, kind of way:

there are an average of EIGHT costume changes, per character, per show.

(it's like my dream day.)

there are SEVENTY FIVE alterations performed each day on set.

blake lively wore a pair of TWENTY THOUSAND DOLLAR crocodile boots in one episode.

(bitch.)

kelly rutherford, however, wore a SIX HUNDRED FIFTY THOUSAND DOLLAR

van kleef and arpels brooch. in one scene.

the closet has TEN THOUSAND garments at any given time.

(i'm swooning. may have to take a break.)

TWELVE HUNDRED pairs of shoes.

(thud. which is the sound of my head hitting the keyboard.)

FIVE HUNDRED BAGS.

TWO HUNDRED HEADBANDS.

(if there was a BIGGER way to emphasize HEADBANDS, trust me, i would have typed it.)

all i can say is:

XOXO

WHAT LANDIS WORE : putting all the good stuff together at once

2009-04-13T05:42:00.000-07:00

the march edition.

(neil barrett db blazer, american apparel leggings, co-op boots, mink fleurette)

(HK custom blazer, jil sander sweater, diesel black gold jeans)

(Viridi-Anne knit pieced coat, lanvin "crackle" gloves)

(diva sunglasses (shut up), Viridi-Anne "armor" shearling,

jil sander sweater, lanvin silver heather pants)

(Viridi-Anne "armor" shearling, diesel pants, vintage work boots)

(lanvin suede and felt peacoat, blood and glitter jeans, lanvin trainers, red nose pit bull)

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : tim hamilton fall 09

2009-03-27T06:06:00.000-07:00

while everyone is out looking for

"the next american menswear designer",

he arrived quietly several years ago.

i bought my first tim hamilton piece in hong kong,

unable to resist the acidic yellow

and coutureish ruching on a cotton hoodie

that had the weight of athletic wear you remember from middle school

rather than the almost flimsy quality of mass brand work these days.

i have worn that thing into the ground.

each season, tim hamilton has explored and expanded,

moving in ways that are hard to chart,

giving us "american" sportwear

with a twist.

this fall, he opened up his oeuvre:

more formal,

more dress,

and how much do i want that printed trench?

and the knits?

the footwear is great, too.

but the sportswear took a huge leap,

into new forms

and a distillation of many of the new trends:

the last look?

me. all me.

(and he just launched womenswear. go. find.)

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : libertine fall 09

2009-03-26T06:04:00.000-07:00

sometimes,

shows just make you happy.

let's have a party

and all wear these, shall we?

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : the thom browne conundrum, fall 09

2009-03-25T05:48:00.000-07:00

for anyone who follows fashion,

thom browne is a bit of a fascination.

there is no denying how his vision of the modern man

has transformed the way every man

wears clothing.

tighter,

higher armholes,

shorter pants,

smaller jackets,

it's all thom.

but as we all know,

it's a pretty strict vision.

unlike a lucas ossenjdriver at lanvin,

or a rick owens,

there is little experimentation in browne's language,

his jazz is relatively one note,

not very coltrane.

so you get used to the parade of short shorts,

gray and pops of color,

knee socks,

and a tutu thrown in here and there.

hence,

fall 09:

hear me in that i am not dismissing the essential beauty of the clothes he creates.

there is a pristine sense of wonder to them,

even if they would have trouble translating to most of america.

for now.

and the hand and quality of his work is beyond peer in person,

so it justifies the staggering price point.

but it has become the outlandish whimsy

that makes me sit up and enjoy him these days.

stripes, plaids, and patters writ loud!

and red pants. RED pants!

and coats best seen from the back . . .

and perhaps my favorite

in the parade:

something to wear,

JUST to wear.

and that is thom's gift.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : LANVIN FALL 09

2009-03-06T02:10:00.000-08:00

alber elbaz and lucas ossenjdriver,

if not THE devil,

are certainly minions of extreme power

and influence.

otherwise,

how to explain the show that ends all other shows.

it took me awhile to become a fan of lanvin.

to begin with, the prices are staggeringly expensive.

not just "designer", but "what the . . . "

then, the clothing is deceptively hangar unfriendly.

there are certain labels that are only understood when seen on the body,

or even better, when FELT on the body.

this is without doubt one of those.

finally, it is a label of supreme wit and subtlety.

you have to be willing to explore notions like

grosgrain trim for men,

silk and cashmere sweatpants,

trainers in satin and patent leather,

cropping that is also voluminous,

length that ends before the ankle.

this is the kind of label where current trends

seem to blur,

and simply not seem relevant

to how you suddenly want to dress.

this collection, for instance,

took the dark mood of many runways,

and blended it with new volumes,

classic lanvin femininity

(is there a such thing as the butch effete?),

and layered neutrals:

and because it IS lanvin,

there is that subversive fuschia/violet/hot pink

infusion:

note all the raw edges?

another lanvin lesson,

another acquired taste.

the layering of neutrals took on new impact:

it is about texture, edges, and a new "softness".

oh,

and an obscene glove:

every piece becomes a "go-to" with a label this evolved.

it reminds me of early jil sander,

where the inquisition built to appreciation built to mad desire

in the course of three early seasons.

you,

you call it madness.

i call it love.

BACKSTAGE BOYS : the men of fall 09

2009-03-05T02:38:00.000-08:00

again,

no reason,

other than eye-candy.

no no, really, it's my gift to vous.

the men of fall 09:

above : vivienne westwood

below : givenchy

below : mcqueen

from here on : dsquared

almost hurts, don't it?

oh wait,

one parting shot:

gratuitous half-naked runway models at the vivienne westwood fall 09 men's show

2009-03-04T02:27:00.000-08:00

because,

really,

aren't you tired of hearing me talk about clothing?

look, i'll give you a little leg,

a nice back,

some knee-pads:

some cheekiness:

some frontiness:

i'll even bring flowers:

i know it SEEMS funny:

but some people get paid LOTS of money

to style these shows:

and some get paid to just hang out:

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : JOHN GALLIANO FALL 09

2009-03-03T02:17:00.000-08:00

let's play a game.

i know how much you love them so.

this is called,

can you see past all the styling to the one good piece

a man might actually wear from the

john galliano runway,

ok,

go.

(remember. one piece from each look.)

very good. shearling coat.

we're starting off easy here.

for those of you who picked "satyr horns",

go back to burning man,

you left your bong on.

ok, next:

yes. graphic tee.

that's about all to realistically salvage here.

i also would have taken "votive lined walkway".

leather pants?

really?

i guess that's safest.

i would have sworn you were going for "brown jacket thing yawn . . ."

but, ok,

leather pants it is.

now, see,

now you're just going for extra credit.

red man-whore stockings with garters AND sock garters

IS what we were looking for.

"black vest" was a trap.

if you said "judge's wig" or "man-whore stockings, again",

then we're just going to have to disqualify you

and send you back to your camper.

ok, i give up.

you started out strong, then things just took a left turn up there.

this should have been a gimme.

the answer is "nothing. well, cheekbones, i'd take his cheekbones. does that count?"

galliano clearly knows what the modern male wants,

and i don't.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : ALEXANDER MCQUEEN FALL 09

2009-03-02T01:28:00.000-08:00

oh where to begin?

i love mcqueen.

he's an extremely talented tailor,

a visionary along the lines of galliano,

and not afraid to try new things

(UNLIKE galliano).

his runways are not runways,

they are theatre.

witness fall 09:

why yes,

yes it IS very gangs of new york

meets sweeney todd

meets 300.

leather aprons, breastplates, codpieces and all.

so good for nipping out to the corner for a gallon of . . . blood.

angst.

daniel day lewis.

i'm glad i took the time to look further,

specifically backstage.

the runway did not do the clothing justice:

serious outerwear,

timeless tailoring,

some chunky knits you could sleep in,

and suiting to have sex in.

and yes please

to the sheared mink

and red bondage gloves:

never know when you're gonna get chilly

while tying up your victim . . .

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : BOTTEGA VENETA FALL 09

2009-02-27T01:16:00.000-08:00

and today,

mes petites,

a palate cleanser.

some sorbet of sorts

after the flurry of pugh and owens i've been feeding (force?) vous.

forgive the advanced fashion,

and enjoy the sober, stunning beauty

of tomas meier's bottega collection.

the price, no object.

the lesson, no brainer.

beautiful quality and beautiful boys

make for beautiful moments:

look at the texture!

the briefcase you never knew you wanted.

the collection you knew you needed.

were money,

and lifestyle,

no object.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : GARETH PUGH FALL 09

2009-02-26T05:14:00.000-08:00

interesting contrast.

rick from yesterday,

gareth today.

gareth just started doing menswear,

and before it was even released it was generating HUGE buzz.

i blame beyonce.

she wears one of his futuristic TRON meets galactica dresses

and suddenly he's IT.

i mean, he was big before, but only in the fashion world,

and only for creating the kind of clothing that club kids swoon over,

the japanese collect,

and the saudis can afford.

so . . . men's.

if i were twenty, i'd have to have it all.

for clubbing.

or provoking people on the local street corner.

now,

it seems a brash version of what rick owens does,

everything pumped into the "statement" category.

it's good to have these designers,

they push everyone.

witness fur, armor, leggings, leather, body con,

gareth-style:

and,

addendum,

this collection has him as a front runner to replace the head designer

at dior homme,

floundering since the loss of the last boy wunderkind,

hedi slimane.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RICK OWENS FALL 09

2009-02-25T05:13:00.000-08:00

dear mr. rick owens.

please send the following pieces from your fall show

to one landis smithers,

west hollywood, california,

stat.

while we understand that some may struggle with your

(incredible, fragile, tough, romantic, gothic, modern, tender)

vision,

we do not have such issues,

as we have tried the kool-aid

and found it much to our liking.

perhaps it is the ability to look past half-shaven pates

and runway styling

and focus on:

great quilted outerwear and a new standard in "military" boots.

beautiful leathers, with architectural (and armor-like) qualities

draped layering knits and almost classic tailored pieces.

primitive fur. perhaps the only way for a man to wear fur.

dramatic overcoats.

a crocodile (alligator) jacket

washed down to be as soft as lambskin.

and the exit that made me think

"no, i could never. yes, i must."

like the leather leggings of the givenchy spring show,

suddenly,

a gold leather miniskirt

seems almost achievable.

when people talk of timelessness in men's fashion,

THIS

is how i see it best expressed.

even if it doesn't fit the conservative mold,

there is not a piece here that ten years from now

will not look as fresh,

as comforting,

or as masculine.

thanks in advance, mr. owens.

i look forward to the arrival of my packages.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : RAF SIMONS FALL 09

2009-02-24T06:05:00.000-08:00

let's return to some good news,

shall we?

come along, kidlets,

i want you to see this guy.

raf simons is a bit of a genius.

remember how we've been talking about fusing traditional "safe" clothing

with inspired newness,

and the challenge so many have fallen flat on their faces with

this season?

add to that the prevailing attempts at metaphor

(tough times require artistic expression even in fashion, sometimes to a too literal degree)

and there has also been an explosion of military and, literally,

ARMOR references.

would this raf fellow do this?

yes. and no.

this line was an explosion of highly beautifully tailored suits,

but as in any great piece of art,

it required an exploration of the DETAILS

to see the whole picture.

nothing was quite as it seemed at first glance:

what to make of one blue sleeve?

a simple lovely pop of color, or something else?

double facing melange and felted wool?

perhaps the prettiest coat of the season,

after his jil show.

but then,

this:

suits began to deconstruct,

not actually a topcoat over a gray suit,

but a top/vest over a pieced suit.

neoprene,

a fabric not seen since early prada runways

re-emerged in layers that felt less scuba

than sheathing,

protecting the male form,

bullet-like.

then knit shells over woven jackets,

to further mix the cocooning effect.

a stunning black and white sequence.

and then,

the explosive power of color,

perhaps the modern man's best armor of all:

this

was a show

to remember.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : DOLCE AND DSQUARED FALL 09

2009-02-23T05:55:00.000-08:00

in the category of

"most yawn-inducing" runways,

the winners are a tie this season.

both dolce&gabbana and dsquared

mine a similar aesthetic.

some have even accused the twins of following too closely to d&g's pattern

of italian tailoring meets soft core porn,

though it can be argued that dsquared definitely mines the abercrombie/americana

vein far more enthusiastically.

but this season,

both shows were uninspired.

packed with "greatest hits" of sorts,

neither fell flat,

but neither added anything new or noteworthy.

to wit,

dolce rolled out it's classic

suit/leathers/eveningwear/model dujour in underwear

(this year being david gandy):

no complaints on the general look,

and there are great pieces,

but,

yawn.

dsquared did not far much better,

rolling with evening mixed with denim/athletic mixed with evening/leathers cropped and tight:

although if you are looking for a cute twinset,

the twins have you covered:

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : ALLESANDRO DELL'ACQUA FALL 09

2009-02-20T05:46:00.000-08:00

in a suprise this season,

the "eminently wearable, yet interesting" award

goes to alessandro dell'acqua.

in a wave of camel and gray,

he took to the runway with a presentation that was both

1) easy to understand

and

2) fresh to the eye.

as you will see through these posts,

there is a preponderance of good outerwear for men this season,

and a definite "short over long" proposal,

with the semi-sheer long knits that rick owens has posited for years

showing up on many runways.

dell'acqua is also about seperates,

a key piece making a look,

and this took an interesting turn for evening,

with metallics showing up in a truly

glam meets luxe treatement:

and while the glitter is a proposition not everyone may love,

the simple gray velvet suit in the mix

was perfect in both silhouette

and styling:

this was a suprisingly strong show,

that will probably receive limited coverage,

yet good sell-through in the stores.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : NUMBER NINE FALL 09

2009-02-19T05:26:00.000-08:00

ok, liked typing that headline.

here's the other side of the men's shows.

the balance to the safety of some.

number nine was inspired by a hotel room he was in

in alaska.

musty wallpapers, stuffy sofas,

tinged.

and we go. . .

hmm.

yes. thank you for that.

i am not going to advocate for man-veils quite yet

but note the shorts over tights, again.

the feminine touches (lace, beading)

mixed in.

maybe the linen shirts that ended the show?

but an extreme expression against the safety of other men's shows.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : DRIES VAN NOTEN FALL 09

2009-02-18T05:13:00.000-08:00

here begins a lesson in dichotomy.

the mens's runways are breaking down into two camps.

safe, almost predictably saleable clothing

padded with "twists" that designers claim will make them distinct

even if they are another gray suit/camelhair coat,

and generally list to the styling trick over truly designed difference . . .

vs.

the outre, "how do i really wear that", moments,

sprinkled slightly with wearable and covetable pieces.

this is not a discourse in cutting edge vs. mainstream.

this is a struggle major designers are having in an area

(menswear)

that was seeing an explosion of creativity and sales

unlike any in decades,

and is now hard hit by the economy

and trying to figure out HOW safe to play it.

witness dries van noten,

one of the true, constant inventors of our time:

MEH, i say, MEH.

he is a few safety pins, sunglasses, and cute models

away from a mall store.

what does it say when all you want to take from a runway show

are some acetate frames,

and some cheekbones?

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : JIL SANDER FALL 09

2009-02-17T06:04:00.000-08:00

lessons learned from the jil fall show:

1) the hourglass silhouette, a nipped waist,

is the most modern mix of masc/femme we've seen in awhile.

and it works:

2) raf simons cast as if he were re-shooting gattaca.

which we'd like to see.

3) the "hand-painted" effect of the woven coats

brought back the memories of jil's original "secret" coats.

no one knew how she did it,

but everyone wanted it.

4) seeing this show made us want to speak in the third person.

more than usual.

especially after we saw the first "must have" of the season:

we'd take this, too:

ah, raf.

you slay us.

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : GIVENCHY FALL 09

2009-02-16T05:57:00.000-08:00

lessons learned from the last givenchy runway:

1) shorts over tights

2) feminine and masculine

3) pretty boys and leather

4) socially uncomfortable silhouettes (tight) mixed with comfort (loose)

lessons learned from the fall givenchy show?

lather, SWOON, repeat.

here is a prime example of where a brand

cuts along the edge,

and others follow.

just wait.

you'll see.

the LANVIN hat. man chapeau. boy topper.

2009-02-11T05:24:00.000-08:00

i don't quite know what to make of this:

it was an amazing runway piece.

so when it started popping up in stores,

for sale,

for real,

i was momentarily excited.

RUNWAY TO REALITY.

but.

tried it on.

and thought,

you know,

even at the height of my club-kid

catsuit wearing

eyeliner long haired

days,

i would have hesitated on this one.

what thinks vous?

too much?

just right?

help me here.

the landis is flummoxed.

hot boyz : cameron schultz

2009-02-09T05:58:00.000-08:00

these pics are lighting up the blogosphere,

but i figure none of you read,

so here,

i'll stop straining my fingers

and just SHOW you

the hottest new male model

out there:

does he seem to have a problem keeping his mouth closed?

perhaps.

but,

is that really a problem,

or a benefit?

(and, does this post single-handedly out-hot tim's brother dennis' "hottie of the day" emails in one fell swoop? we'll let god decide that, i am not one to judge.)

(iwin.)

HA!

2009-02-06T05:53:00.000-08:00

as was pointed out

on the blog where i found this little gem,

if you think a bathing suit

is going to lure him away,

check his side laces, girl.

fall 09 fashion runway rundowns are coming -

2009-02-05T05:29:00.000-08:00

as usual,

i'll be blogging the fall men's shows for you.

this is a little pre-promise,

so to speak.

i know some of you have problems wrapping your heads around

some of the looks i've advocated.

(tights under shorts, anyone?)

but this time around, i'm going to prep you.

i will NOT be advocating these looks for men:

these are from the bernhard wilhelm show.

i applaud originality,

and lord knows i like a half naked boy on a runway.

this is not originality,

this is self-indulgence.

not chic.

not my fall 09.

more soon,

besos, babies.

SHOE FETISH : flesh for fantasy thanks to oki-ni

2009-02-04T06:25:00.000-08:00

darlings.

you know how you hate certain things

at the same time that you deeply love them?

like those republican rape fantasies you keep having.

yep, like that,

that's how i feel about oki-ni,

a little shopping site for men over in europe.

and no, i am not immune to their temptations,

i have succumbed to the limited edition

orange raf simons sunglasses:

or,

the spring shoe selection.

i want.

and yet i should not want.

it's recession guilt.

brought on by oki-ni!

(here i am raising my fist in the air and shaking it like an angry person.)

sure, sure.

new running shoes from alexander mcqueen and puma.

i can handle this.

i'll just NOT imagine them with rolled khakis and a gray tee.

nope.

some people would call this low.

because i already have this STYLE,

but not this color combination,

and they are sooo comfortable and work with everything.

low.

and some would say that offering said style also in

NAVY CRACKLED LEATHER

was playing dirty,

but not i.

i am just quietly weeping to myself.

fetal position.

i think the academic term for my response to this margiela gray suede boot

involutary urination.

it's pavlovian.

so, i think we can all agree,

oki-ni,

love to hate you.

what landis wore : evenings out in los angeles

2009-01-21T04:47:00.000-08:00

things i've noticed about myself recently.

1) i am old.

a night "out" no longer requires any of the following items:

velvet catsuits. riding boots. masks. eyeliner.

(just ask tim. i am not kidding.)

2) los angeles is making me dress up MORE.

perhaps it's that you can walk into any restaurant in jeans and a tee here

that makes the landis want to pile on the fur.

it's dinner out, you slobs.

not a screening of a seth rogan film.

3) i gave up trying to define my style

in the same way i gave up trying to describe myself.

like all good things in life,

experiencing it is better than talking about it.

so:

(rick owens tee. lanvin cardigan/wrap. diesel pants. bottega loafers. gray sable scarf.)

(burberry prorsum blazer, h&m turtleneck, mochi silk twill khakis, grenson navy patent wingtips)

wait. gets better.

2/3 of the items. 70% off.

ha.

i AM aware of "these troubled times".

eat it, pessimists. you CAN buy happiness.

ampersands : the LANVIN WINGTIP. shit.

2009-01-19T04:43:00.000-08:00

i was naive.

in my little shell.

surely lucas ossenjdriver,

the genius behind lanvin's men's line,

would be content torturing me with a nearly endless procession,

season after season,

of covetable "stealth luxe" clothing

and obscene new takes on the trainer.

surely, surely,

he would let me occasionally purchase a shoe,

a small thing,

and then go about my way.

BASTARD!

(pardon my french.)

what landis wore : the rick owens coats from JOYCE, hong kong

2009-01-16T06:16:00.000-08:00

rick owens

(you all know how i feel about him. le sigh.)

started his whole gig here in los angeles,

and after a month here, i completely get it.

the whole rumpled, assymetrical, stealth luxe thing,

the touch of biker, bad-boy, teenage angst,

the casual meeting the bondage . . .

it's perfect for this city.

i have three of his pieces,

all purchased in hong kong at the most gem-like retail store in the world,

Joyce.

to get to the men's section in Joyce (i capitalize out of respect),

you have to wander through the house section, to an abalone shell encrusted door,

press the button,

and wait for the tiny elevator to take you up to the hidden third floor.

there, you are released into several rooms filled with . . . well,

filled with a perfected selection of men's clothing.

it's like louis, boston, but without the need to add in conservative pieces.

it's like maxfield, los angeles, but without the need to add the chrome hearts and the sequins.

it's like atelier, new york, but without the heavy goth touch.

it's like landis. and every time, though he was based in l.a., and now is in paris,

i have found a rick owens piece that i could not leave without.

from this:

(rick owens denim jacket, diesel sheer cardigan and jeans, co-op boots)

a denim jacket
that has the perfect, toxic, wash, over-long sleeves (an owens hallmark),
and hidden pockets for all your stealth needs.

to this:

(rick owens washed lambskin jacket, diane declerq scarf, jil sander sweater, levi's jeans)

the most "yes, i can comfortably die in this" jacket i have ever owned.
his leathers are cut like armour, to your body without restricting,
with narrow sleeves, tight in the torso, and exaggerated collars.

to this:

(rick owens pieced lambskin, silk nylon, and cotton jacket)

the ultimate "didn't know i needed it" jacket,
which like the others,
was hanging on the rack in joyce,
silently pining for me,
ready to
"complete me".

no, literally.

(disturbingly materialistic and "these troubling times" inappropriate comment, courtesy of landis)

(all rights reserved. landis is a wholly owned subsidiary of landis inc.)

what landis wore : the pea coats

2009-01-13T06:08:00.000-08:00

los angeles is a city of mild winters.

much to the chagrin of all the fur in my closet.

so i find myself in pea coats when it gets "bitter" outside.

not "bitter" like your last ex who kept calling then put up that really cruel blog post that you can't take down and always pops up when someone googles your name and thereby makes you bitter. "bitter" like all the los angelenos think cold is when it dips under sixty five.

(jil sander canvas cropped pea coat, patchwork jcrew khakis, mcqueen linen and leather wingtips)

(banana republic washed canvas pea coat, neil barrett twill slim cargo pants, re-dyed bally suede lace-ups)

A.P.B. : bring me the duckie brown spring line (model not included)

2009-01-12T05:41:00.000-08:00

i've said it before.

the duckie brown spring line is a breakthrough.

i want it all.

the shorts. the tights. the athletic inspired cuts. gimme.

but boys at d.b., one thought.

when casting your next model, peut etre,

someone who comes across a little less . . . constipated?

just sayin . . .

love,

landis

what landis wore : walking the dawgs

2009-01-09T05:51:00.000-08:00

one of the perkiest parts about the move to los angeles
is that the pups get walked twice a day,
every day.

which has created the "what to wear when walking the dogs" dilemma.

cause our neighborhood is chock full o' the gays.

cute, cut, buffed and polished to within an inch of their lives,
all the boys walk the main drag
(santa monica, not divine)
and they all stop to pet the girls
(the dogs, not the lesbians).

so you can't just throw on the sweats and head out the door.

not that i would.

so i've adopted a kind of limited palette thing:

(martin margiela sweater, james perse tee, jcrew khakis, paul smith boots)

(gilded age jacket, raf simons gloves, old navy khakis, opening ceremony boots)

(nice collective coat, levi's capital E jeans, grenson patent wingtips)

i guess dogwalking is like the grocery store of the gay world.

or some other analogy.

i have a head cold. leave me alone.

the insanity of barney's final sale, or, god answers my prayers, and in my size.

2009-01-08T06:14:00.000-08:00

A STORY FROM THE BOOK OF LANDIS:

i had stalked this piece all season.

granted, i have recently moved to los angeles,
so there is no reason at all for another winter coat in my closet.

let alone a jil sander one.

and then it went on sale.

and i ignored it.

and it was second mark down.

and i tried it on, turned in front of the mirror,
and ignored it.

then it went on final markdown.

and i visited it, petted in, and sighed.

then, god showed me the reason for my move down here.

he marked it down again.

it was 87% off.

and there was one left.

in my size.

so this (yes, you see right) little pleated number now sits quietly in my closet,
waiting for a trip to a chilly clime.

the lord works in mysterious ways, my children.

go forth and spread the good word.

the POLO SHIRT, reconsidered :

2009-01-06T06:25:00.000-08:00

as a child growing up in houston, texas during the eighties,
the advent of the polo shirt was something like the recent coming of obama.

people never thought it would stick,
initially found it a little working class to be a winner,
and doubted the south would adopt it.

and look where we are now.

in a world where discount stores "stack em high and watch em fly",
every joe on ever corner wears one and considers himself "dressed".

au contraire, mon frere.

the polo is the male equivalent of the capri pant.
it tends to dumb down even the chicest of people,
to drive to the lowest common denominator,
and no amount of re-invention or designer collaborations can fully remove the stigma.

trust me on this,
i am not even immune.

i own polos from dior.
ok, one.

i own "re-issued" polos from lacoste.

(important note. i do NOT own a polo by ralph lauren. it has become, for me, too much of the "look what i found at the factory outlet, bob" item. it reeks of the sub-urban. not the suburban. the sub-urban.)

have we firmly established that i have a distaste for the polo?

so, help me here.

why is miuccia prada such a bitch?

she puts out a spring line that re-interprets american "classics",
but if seen through some twisted, malcolm gladwellian, post-blink drug haze.

and suddenly,
i am fourteen again, sitting on the quad,
waiting for booker to get out of debate so we can go make out in his car.

it is just hot enough, that i may have to subvert my own distaste.

THAT, lovies, is fashion.

what i'd like to see on the street. just this week. come ON, one of you, make me happy.

2008-12-26T05:57:00.000-08:00

i mean, i get it. we're all sick of hearing about his weight loss, his tattoos, his ex boyfriends . . . but gotta love a boy who can work his legs in a kilt. and a big mother fucking hermes bag. and from the look of his attitude, a healthy sense of humor.

and who doesn't want a navy kilt? no, really. i'm serious.

i think it's because marc jacobs must be in a place in life where the fear of judgement is gone, where he can explore himself and what he needs and desires, and his collections have never been more creatively intense or exciting. the fact that he can throw all this on at once, and make me smile rather than cringe . . . says something about how men COULD approach their presentation to the world.

with a sense of joy, humor, and experimentation.

and then someone show me this :

hot.

check the boots.

check the banding on the pants.

check the sheerness of the shirt.

it's couture meets skinhead.

and has the same sense of release and relief that the outfit above it.

confidence,
however you express it,
is sexy,
my friends.

go forth and propogate the word.

what we can learn from women - BOTTEGA VENETA RESORT 08

2008-12-24T05:48:00.000-08:00

let's face it,
guys just don't get the options or the range women do,
and even though that is changing rapidly
(roland mouret is doing menswear! look it up. it's major.)
we are still left out of many of the changing whims of fashion,
for better or worse.

resort is actually an example of the "worse".

a season that used to be primarily for the very very wealthy who would escape to resorts during the holiday season, "resort" has become a fourth season in fashion, primarily due to the shifting nature of both weather (thank you global warming), and the travel patterns of the world's influencers, with clothing that is almost season-LESS. think great infusions of color in the middle of a drab winter, and great pieces to layer.

witness bottega veneta for women. it's a lesson in indulgence, timelessness, and the use of COLOR:

use this as inspiration for HOW to use color. note the grounding of gray.

note the classic cut on a leather coat, but the new use of color.

craftsmanship.

and color.

again.

and hell yeah.
a sense of humor, baby.

cause you might be a guy, but the best way to do color,
is to NOT TAKE IT SERIOUSLY,
and suddenly, it all loosens up.

luxury is not knowing that you have anything on, baby.

act naked, and anything can work.

models i have known : stan

2008-12-22T05:42:00.000-08:00

i'm sure he has a last name,
we shot him for a denim campaign at old navy,
and he caught a certain wistful quality i wished we had put more into action
in the finished work.

this recent spread with a new york publication shows off this quality,
somewhere between feminine and classically masculine,
he's the friend you had in college
who you only remember through photos.

and are struck with nostalgia.

perhaps in my new life,
a chance to explore this side of him . . .

MAKING THE BRAND : KRIS VAN ASCHE

2008-12-19T06:21:00.000-08:00

buzz.
it's like crack for a brand.

and sometimes a print campaign can do it. generate that talk value, get the internet buzzing, and start everyone searching for the ads, and eventually the brand.

kris van asche hired a noted art photographer known for his work with porn stars,
making their oeuvre something of beauty,
then hired gay porn stars,
rented a laudromat,
and . . .

a hypnotic brand statement is born.

and people have been looking it up for months.

from the mouths of BABES : festive

2008-12-17T06:10:00.000-08:00

something holiday to get y'all going.

now go. adorn.

i'm thinking rose gold. it's so very now.

SAM SAFFMAN (file under "male models i have known", petite crushes, good guys, and "casting tapes that mysteriously end up on the interwebs through no fault of my own".)

2008-11-21T05:42:00.000-08:00

i've worked with many models,
and some just rise to the top.

stop it, you pigs. i mean they're pretty talented and they are pros,
AND they manage to be pretty nice normal guys.

i worked with sam for about three years at old navy,
and watched his career expand over time.

this was the first casting tape i ever saw him on,
and it kind of hits you right away what you have to do
if you want to be a succesful model,
but also a good all around guy:

1) learn how to bashfully tug on ear.
2) develop irresistable accent. (practice by growing up in leeds)
3) occasionally display incomprehensible tattoo under arm
4) be genetically blessed.
5) get guys to gush like twelve year old girls on their blogs about you.

there. that shouldn't be so hard for you guys to accomplish.

i'd start practicing.

now.

A.P.B. (bring me the head of rick owens)

2008-11-20T05:34:00.000-08:00

ok, if anyone sees this man,
please bring him directly to me.

do not stop go, do not collect anything he has lying around his showroom,
do not spend inordinate amounts of time chatting with the exquisite white-faced boy child he has manning the floor of his tribeca flagship, do not attempt to charm something fur-related from the charming woman in his place on the palais royale.

simply gather as much merchandise (medium) as you can get your hands on,

example A:

example B:

example C:

then,
grab him by his big muscley arm,
pull him out of that damn fog he's so fascinated with,
and drag him to my place.

and try to get here by six,
i'm having coctails on the roof and i really hate to start parties without all the guests there.

it's rude.

STARTING FROM SCRATCH : khakis

2008-11-19T05:26:00.000-08:00

i've always said that certain retail chains could turn their whole damn chains around
if they'd step away from all denim all the time
and try and re-imagine a category.

take khakis.

they're just as, if not more so, functional as denim.
they are a touch more versatile in the dressing up category.
and done right, they actually make you look unique in this denim mad world.

but they have to be rethought a bit.

first, the fit.
don't we all want a waist? i think waists are great. i think all the crunches and laps in the pool are done for a reason. and even if we're just sitting at starbucks on santa monica watching the waists go by, we WANT them. so how about cutting a khaki that emphasizes that, huh? so hard? really?

and perhaps we can leave the pleats behind. as in "the trash".

i think now is probably the time to add a little volume to the leg. much more modern. nothing viktor and rolf-ish (for those of you that missed the reference, e-on over to style.com and look it up. you people really need to read the syllabus before you come to class.) but a little breathing room so you can sit down.

and perhaps a slightly fuller lower leg. i'm not asking for hammer pants, just something more like this.

add a bronze button, a pair of trainers, and a tee, and suddenly, you're neither the chelsea clone, nor the dockers boy.

how refreshing.

alright, i'm done with you. go away.

FROM THE MOUTHS OF BABES - investment dressing

2008-11-18T05:16:00.000-08:00

this is in reply to a question richard posted on my other blog

about how many lanvin trainers i own.

i find that an intensely personal question,
so instead of answering in a direct and honest fashion, i'm going to point out to you all that when you find something of quality that makes you feel special, something that works more than one way for you, something that gives you that little thrill inside, you should buy multiples to cover your bases.

this holds true for every category in fashion, from american apparel deep v necks to good denim, to brazilian pool boys.

i, personally, continually strive to reach the nirvana of the perfect closet,
well stocked with casual basics (by rick owens),
everyday wear (by martin margiela and raf simons)
and that "item" piece that pulls the twain together (most often, lanvin. surprise.)

so, in closing,
i would say it's rude to ask "how many"
and more polite to ask
"how do you like the latest pair? isn't navy wonderful?"

sorry, dropped off there for a bit. but i'm a guy.

2008-11-17T05:11:00.000-08:00

i get to do that.

it's like how when we first met, and you gave me your number, and i didn't call for three weeks,
then i was drunk one saturday,
and i called at three in the morning and asked if i could come over.

so i'm just calling back to say thanks.

i had a great time.

you're swell.

from the mouths of BABES : on fooling yourself

2008-10-20T05:57:00.000-07:00

Illusion is the first of all pleasures.

- Oscar Wilde

a man who knew a thing of two about the sartorial life.

and made a life out of illusion.

AMPERSANDS : damn opening ceremony and their boots

2008-10-17T06:17:00.000-07:00

in the series of accesories that make life worth living,
the chukka boot as interpreted by opening ceremony.

i have a few pairs. now i see this.

yes, it is simply black leather.

why do i find this insanely, impossibly, dirty sexy?

calvin klein home, home, on my range -

2008-10-16T05:39:00.000-07:00

looks like calvin klein (the brand)
is getting into furniture.

here's hoping it's masculine, clean-lined, and done with luxurious materials.

you know, like gold leaf, leather, and walnut.

STARTING FROM SCRATCH : sweat it.

2008-10-15T05:34:00.000-07:00

the sweatshirt.

please, try something without a college logo.

or, any logo.

think a color, or gray with an accent.

think slimmer fit, more like a sweater, more like a shirt,
and look to a higher gauge fabric than cotton,
something that might last you a few years.

then, let it mix with flannel pants,
khakis,
and nothing else.

if you buy matching pants, you are reading the wrong blog.

taking the picture that's in your head -

2008-10-14T05:44:00.000-07:00

how to take a good picture (of yourself):

1) have a sister who modeled. lauren was the girl who, in every single picture, was dazzling. even though it was the eighties, her hair was high, and her dresses made lacroix look tame, she stood out. she almost radiated. i hated her. she told me that all you had to do was throw your shoulders back, pivot your hips to camera, and smile, using your teeth. i thought she was drinking. it couldn't be THAT simple. but, i tried it, cause i was gay, vain, and desperate to look good in a picture. it didn't work.

so, when confronted, she told me about the secret.

2) you have to practice. every face is different, but mirrors are our friends. eventually you'll see the angle, the smile, and the eyes that work. so i did, and it got better. but not perfect. i kept practicing, and nothing improved much. so i tackled her in the hall, held her down, and threatened to spit in her mouth, until she relented and told me:

3) you have to fake it. she said "look. you have to fake that you are happy. that you are laughing. and that's key, cause everyone looks better when they're laughing, or coming right into or out of a smile."

and she was right.

why this ramble? cause men need to learn not just how to dress themselves,
but how to present themselves,
and how to make sure the world sees them.

cause a good portrait goes a long way to securing what you want these days . . .
it is a social-networked, blogged, im'd environment.

now go get a mirror. and practice.

you want to be perfect, right?

ICONS OF STYLE : Paul Newman

2008-10-13T05:25:00.000-07:00

ok,
let's face it.

the man had NO "style".

he just was.

and that's all you need.
i actually think his calm confidence was best (stylistically) expressed
in shots with his life's love,
joanne woodward.

he was a man with no style. but the confidence to pull it off.

DON'T try this at home.

uniform redux : the angelina example

2008-10-10T05:46:00.000-07:00

HERE,
this is what i was talking about.

rumor has it that angelina used to have it in her contract that she ONLY would wear black or white,
no matter the role or the event.

seems she's branched out a bit over the years (though knowing that and seeing her films, it seems pretty precise), but there is a definite limitation of silhouette, palette, and mood to her clothing.

a "uniform" if you will:

the deep v gown,
or strapless,
nothing fussy:

she loves a good trench coat:

VERY rarely (because even a uniform needs some flexibility),
a pop of color:

course,
it doesn't hurt to pop this doll head on top of the simple dress code:

i love a man in a uniform -

2008-10-09T05:38:00.000-07:00

who doesn't?

but i've recently been pondering the possibility of a "uniform" for day to day.
not having to go into an office,
where the "jeans and a blazer / pants and a tee" attitude made getting dressed pretty easy
(there is no uniform for creatives in my field, but there was always a desire on my part to dress it up a bit, not treat the position with any disrespect.)
has made my day to day
a bit of a dilemma.

my upstairs neighbor is a writer,
and laments the "sweatpant" issue
which i gradually began to understand.

when the days bleed a bit, it's far too easy for a guy to slide into sweats, a tee, anything that makes it easy.

but i found that made me depressed.

i LOVE clothes.

so,
i have started mandating a dress up moment
every day.

and hence, the uniform idea.

i've spent the last few years limiting the palette i buy to colors that work for me,
that make me feel powerful.
it's a very navy and stone colored world.

now i've narrowed to shapes, pieces, labels even
that fit, marry, and make me feel
powerful, comfortable, adult.

does this constitute a uniform? and if so, do other guys find themselves
not in a rut,
but in a refined form of presentation?

RUNWAY RUNDOWN : gilded age spring 09

2008-10-08T06:04:00.000-07:00

i've told my friend todd a few times
this is the way a MAN dresses.

you know, if you're the guy who can pull off the
"handsome" not "cute" thing,
or the guy who can be called
"rugged"
or the guy who can legitimately claim to have smoked and ridden horses
and been on a billboard.

or if you want to BE that guy,
then gilded age is your label.

doesn't matter if a purse falls out of your mouth when you open it,
these clothes are gonna butch up your world, fast.

what you can't tell from the pictures
(though feel free to click on them and examine with fervor)
is the attention to detail in this line,
the fact that much of it is still woven on original 19th century looms in north carolina,
or the density of the fabric and unexpected weights and hand-feel in the mixing and layering.

this is a man's line,
that doesn't seem to borrow from anyone else's line,
and doesn't go nostalgic.

WHAT LANDIS WORE : stripes at night

2008-10-07T06:00:00.000-07:00

meeting friends out for dinner,
another late september solution for night:

(dries van noten scarf, custom cashmere blazer from hong kong, acne jeans, bottega loafers)